Life on the Oregon Trail

Last week was certainly memorable. I was invited along with a group of six other PCVs to sing at the US Embassy’s Independence Day celebration. On Monday, we arrived in Phnom Penh to begin rehearsing for the big event to be held Wednesday night. The pleasure of singing was only superseded by the comfort of our accommodations. Unlike our usual sweltering insect-infested abodes, we were hosted in beautiful homes of embassy workers. We all marveled over the hot water (in sinks even!), washing machines, refrigerators (in my house there were three), and air-conditioning. That’s not to mention the food… Arnoldo and I stayed with the Deputy Chief of Mission and his partner who had bought not one, but two ice cream cakes from the brand new Dairy Queen for us, this on top of the delicious homemade food that their chef had already prepared.

Taking in the pleasures of modernity, we spent Tuesday morning rehearsing our selections of the Khmer and American national anthems, “America the Beautiful,” and “You’re a Grand Old Flag/Yankee Doodle.”  Although our musical genius, Diana, had arranged a rousing “America: My Country ‘Tis of Thee,” it was not allowed because the tune “God Save the Queen” would have confused the guests, according to the ambassador who also specifically barred us from singing “This Land Is Your Land.” Just before lunch, we dug into some delicious brownies, and then it hit…

I didn’t know what it was, but it came on strong and knocked me out. I became hot then cold, and my bowels flowed freer than Old Glory on a flagstaff. For 24 hours I laid in bed, scurrying to the bathroom every half hour hoping not to soil the fine linens my hosts had provided. By the middle of the night, I was semi-hallucinating that my hosts were performing heavy duty construction in my room which was directly related to the pains in my large intestine. Fearing that I wouldn’t be able to sing that night (and that I was losing my mind), I finally called the medical duty officer. After a quick stool test, our lovely Medical Officer Joanne called to confirm that I had a case of amoebic dysentery.

Fortunately, I was able to get some medication and stay out of the bathroom long enough to sing for all the fancy people at the embassy’s party. Ambassador Todd and the Cambodian foreign minister made brief remarks after the national anthems and a presentation of the colors by the US Marine Corps. A toast to His Excellency Barack Obama, Her Excellency Michelle Obama, and His Majesty King Norodom Sihamoni was followed by mingling and food grazing. Although I couldn’t eat much, guests enjoyed mini-hotdogs, mini-hamburgers, mini-pizzas, steak skewers, bread, cheese, and a selection of American wines and beers. While it was somewhat awkward for us to talk with other guests, several people came over to the choir to congratulate us and inform us that they (and the foreign minister’s wife in particular) really enjoyed our performance. We concluded the evening with our patriotic selections during which the Ambassador lip-synced along (to his credit, I think he was just confused standing between me singing the tenor part and Diana singing the alto line).

It was striking to be in the Sofitel, one of Phnom Penh’s finest hotels, sharing an evening with the city’s socialites. There I was, a lowly Peace Corps volunteer, amidst all the hub-bub of an event reserved for the most elite. I was honored to take part, and I was pleased that our singing was so well received. (The pianist even asked for our business card, and we had to explain to several people that we aren’t a legitimate choir which can easily be booked for weddings and Bar Mitzvahs.) Now I’m back at site feeling better and preparing for a new schedule of English and Spanish classes which start tomorrow. It was refreshing to spend a week away, but it’s clear that the village is my home now, and I’m excited to get back to work.

Group Shot of the Singers and Marines